Northern Ontario Review

I know Northern Ontario isn't a province, but not only is it big enough to be one, it is totally separate in just about every way from Southern Ontario, so it warrants its own review. I know it doesn't conform to the actual definition, but I will delinate Northern Ontario from the Manitoba/Minnesota borders to Sault Ste Marie in the south. Past Sault, it changes character entirely in almost every way and so I will include the shore of Lake Huron in Southern Ontario.

Now then, what to say about this hellhole. I considered even writing this review because frankly, I don't have good things to say about Northern Ontario, but the people (those 10 - 20 of you that actually read this) must know.
But first, some stats.

Days spent in Northen Ontario: 12
Days spent cycling: 11
Distance covered: 1100 km roughly
Meters elevation gained: roughly 5800 (only 2000 less than from the Fraser Valley to Alberta)
Days where it rained at some point: 10
Average cost of camping: 30$ (unserviced tent site)
Average distance between towns: 80 km (based on no actual math, just what I remember).
Hottest temp: +36 with humidex
Coldest temp: +7
Longest day on the bike: 150 km from Fort Frances to Atikokan
Shortest day on the bike: 80 km from Pancake Bay to Sault
Best donuts: Superior Home Baking in Sault
Best coffee: Velorution Bike Shop in Sault (and its FREE)
Best beer: Probably Sleeping Giant Brewing in Thunder Bay (sorry Outspoken Brewing)

BAD impressions (the whine section):
Hills hills hills. Every day in Northern Ontario was up and down. It was at its worst going around Lake Superior, where you tend to have flat sections that never exceed 2 km between successive hills.
Wind. The wind never stops blowing in Northern Ontario, and while it drifts around a lot and you occasionaly get a tailwind, it is more often than not a headwind.
The rain. Actually not that bad. It rained nearly every day but rarely while I was on the bike.
The remoteness. Towns are very far apart with large stretches of barren wilderness between them. Staying on top of water and food was difficult and you rarely have the option to do longer days unless you are willing to do wild camping or go 180 km in a single day.
The roads. Even worse than Manitoba, the shoulder is only about 8 inches wide on average and generally in terrible shape. Crumbling asphalt, potholes, or disappearing shoulders abound. Pretty sad when you consider that I spent most of my time in Northern Ontario on the Trans Canada (the main highway in Canada).

The silver linings (good stuff):
Haven Hostel in Thunder Bay. Reasonable rates, cool atmosphere and a great conti brekkie.
Free camping on the beach at Terrace Bay. One of the most amazing spots I've ever pitched my tent.
Most things in Sault Ste Marie. Velorution, Superior Home Baking, the Independent Grocery, Outspoken Brewing. I had a great time in the Soo.
Lots of visitor centers with great staff.
And of course, the other two members of Camp Cyclist, Guy and Risto. Aside from making the trip around Superior less expensive, you two made it more fun and more bearable to know someone else was out there on the road with me.

Overall impression: Sucked a lot. Unfortunately you have to do it on a cross Canada ride unless you dip down into Minnesota and Michigan. The experience could be vastly improved by upgrades to the Trans Canada Highway shoulder and I intend to petition the governments of Canada and Ontario to make this happen.
Camping is either free or amazingly expensive. Avoid Provincial Parks as much as possible, as they are not only the most expensive (40$/night, no services), but also are often under boil water advisories. Get your shit together Ontario.
Advise travel with buddies, as it will save you a lot of money, and is also a major boost to morale when you have someone to complain to every night.

The average day's roller coaster

An unusually wide and smooth shoulder outside Nipigon