Leaving Sault Ste Marie, I had heard from the fine dudes at Velorution about a series of alternative roads to the Trans Canada. Remembering the "shortcut" on the way to the bar the night before, I was skeptical, but gave highway 17B a try. It was alright, low traffic and a paved shoulder (wow), but the road surface wasn't fantastic.
Eventually found my way down to the Trans Canada again, and dealt with shoulder of varying size and significant truck traffic. When the shoulder was replaced with rumble strips and sand, I had enough, and took a chance on one of the country roads paralleling the highway.
What a great gamble! Apparently I was on part of the Trans Canada Trail, but it was undistinguishable from a country road.
Road conditions were beautiful for about 20 km: pavement, beautiful winding vistas through farm country, and best of all, only 10 cars went by.
I passed a number of Amish (maybe Mennonite) homesteads, and being Sunday, many of them were enjoying a day of rest by laying under the trees. I was tempted to join them on a few occasions but decided to enjoy the lovely riding instead.
After about 20 km, the road changed to gravel and I decided to risk it.
Unfortunately, it quickly became heavily washboarded and when combined with the steep, winding hills, I was reduced to doing single digit speeds at times.
I bailed out back to the Trans Canada (highway) for the last 5 km to Bruce Mines, where I grabbed a spot at a municipal campground for the night.
Bruce Mines is a nice little town, and the campground was like many I stayed at in the prairies: inexpensive, with slightly dingy but free and hot showers. All you need for a night as a bicycle tourist.
Due to overnight rain and the morning dew, the tent was a bit damp the next day but I felt rested (finally), and set out for a longer day.
Now that I have escaped Northern Ontario, my ride was more or less decent, passing a small, picturesque town every 20 to 30 km. Lots of chances for rest.
The highway conditions weren't ideal, narrow, crumbling shoulders and frequent rough sections that required cyclocross or professional sprinter levels of bike handling to traverse without nailing a pothole or getting hit by a truck.
A steady headwind kept my speed down but the land was more or less flat so I took it easy and went for the slow and steady distance. Even though I was on the highway all day, some great scenery, between old buildings, nice farmlands, and roadside wetlands filled brim to brim with water lilies. All in all, welcome changes from Northern Ontario.
After the small town of Blind River, which boasts a beautiful river and two Tims, I came upon a sight that confused and delighted me: a three meter wide, paved shoulder, complete with rumble strips to separate me from the gas-guzzling peasantry. I had smooth, safe sailing for 15 km until I was suddenly back upon the 6 inch wide shoulder, with trucks passing by a few feet to my left.
Only half a day of Trans Canada Highway left.
Upon reaching the small town of Spanish, I headed into a campsite for the night. The fee was a bit more than I hoped, but the difference was soon made up for by Dan,substitute campground manager. Dan runs an electrician business from Espanola, a bit to the east. He stopped by with salad, pastries and fruit, then offered me some info on Manitoulin Island, my next detour. He later returned with two cold (!) beers, and a homemade butter tart. Kudos Dan! You are the man.
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