However, upon waking I discovered a great tragedy. One of the window panels on my rian fly had somehow torn loose and was hanging by one corner. I've had this tent for over 7 years now and was understandably heartbroken.
I mused over repair options but as the fly was still dripping wet from the rainfall I couldn't do much for the moment except apologise to it and pack it up wet and broken.
Saddling up for a big morning of climbing on gravel to Trout Lake (the town), I rolled out and immediately hit construction at the first hill.
Bob the sign man though immediately offered me grapes and apples from his own yard and filled the 15 minute wait with conversation. Great guy.
Sneaking past all the heavy equipment on the very narrow road, I started grinding my way up what would be a bakers dozen of 8-15% gradients. It was a roller coaster reminiscent of Lake Superior but I was steadily going up and soon went into the low hanging clouds. Mist began condensing on everything, including my sunglasses, so I had to ship them for a while.
About an hour and a half (and like 19 km) later, I finally began descending and dropped out of the cloud into some lovely sun. A vista opened up and I was shocked to see fresh snow brushing the mountains across the lake, not far above me. Wild, considering it was +10 at the rec site when I left at 8 am.
Finally rolling into Trout Lake a little past 10 I got some snacks and carried on. A headwind soon cropped up and I began to feel the multiple 15% gradients I had smashed my legs against in the morning. I settled in for a tough day and slowed the pace.
I was expecting a solid downhill to the ferry turnoff at Galena Bay, but I had to fight my way up two more big climbs to find it. Descensing for 5 km in the sun with no traffic and not having to turn my pedals once was quite nice though.
At the ferry cutoff I was hurting for lunch and coffee but a severe lack of rest stops forced me to take my break just sitting in the weeds along the road. I managed to find one half of one bar of service, which wasn't enough to do more than check the date of Thanksgiving Dinner with my sister.
After revitalizing, I headed south. Into another big hill.
As I crept up it I remembered the words of the mythical east to west Cross Canada bike touring I once met in Sault Ste Marie concerning his plans to bike around Lake Superior, "It's along a lake so it should be pretty flat, right?".
After a long roll along the top of the ridge I finally got a blistering fast downhill to St Leon and turned off to the logging road that would lead me to the hotsprings for the night.
I had recieved mixed advice about this road. Some people seemed skeptical about me doing it on a touring bike. Some people assured me it was not that bad and easily handled by an RV.
It was only 11 km so I decided to risk it for a night at the hotsprings and camping.
I made it to the hotsprings. But man, did it ever suck.
The road was bar none, the roughest road I have ever been on. Even the KVR was more rideable in the worst spots. Lots of rocks, but the worst was the washboard that stretched all the way from ditch to ditch the entire 11 km up. It seemed perfectly designed to shake a bike apart and my tent bag fell off the back no less than 4 times. Not to mention the 300m climbing with multiple instances where the gradient dipped above 16%.
It took me about an hour and wow was I ever miserable going up it.
So here is your verdict, straight from the experienced cyclist: do not attempt on a touring bike unless you have full suspension or maybe a fat bike. Better yet, find someone to give you a ride up.
Anyways, I eventually made it up with the bike in one piece, had a snack, got a site and settled in to mend the tent. I eventually decided sewing the panel back on and then applying a liberal layer of seam sealer would be the best bet. Seems to be holding as of 5 hours later.
Then I ate a swift dinner and finally rolled down to the hotsprings.
Relaxation! I lay back and stretched out tired legs and back while watching the clouds go by.
Maybe it was worth the grind up.
Tough day with only 90 km but over 1300 meters of climbing.
Trying to get back to my car by Friday afternoon so I am going to try cranking out a longer day to Slocan tomorrow. About 125 km and I have been assured that there will be a fair number of hills.
Oh well, at least I will get back to cell service at Nakusp tomorrow morning and get to go grocery shopping.
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